Matchday at the Santiago Bernabéu: A First-Timer’s Complete Guide
There is a particular sound the Santiago Bernabéu makes about twenty minutes before kick-off. It is not chanting, exactly. It is the low, compounding hum of tens of thousands of people arriving from four different metro exits at once, funnelling up the Paseo de la Castellana with scarves over their shoulders and bocadillos in their…